Monthly Archives: July 2011

Bring your blade, bedding and basin…

A good friend of mine who lives in Kamwenge town is pregnant with her second baby. During the birth of her first child, her labour became obstructed. Because there was no place in Kamwenge that could help her, she travelled 1.5 hours on a dirt road, in severe trauma, on public transport to reach the nearest clinic that could operate on her. Her and her beautiful boy survived, although she now has a great fear of childbirth. Every time I see her, she fervently asks for me to pray for the safe arrival of her baby due in August.

But she was fortunate enough to be able to afford the cost of transport to Fort Portal, and was able to get there in time.

In Kamwenge, where the population has reached at least 350,000, there is no district hospital. The two main clinics in the district do not offer Emergency Obstetric Care. There is no working theatre. No running water or electricity. Many of the health staff are hardworking, compassionate individuals who are tired of having so few drugs and equipment.

Being a woman in Africa is tough. And one of the toughest things of all is giving birth. I read lately, in a journal article written by an anthropologist (I can’t remember the name of the article!), that in an area of eastern Uganda, childbirth is sometimes referred to in vanacular as ‘the trap’ because of the risks involved.

The maternal mortality rate in Uganda is 506/100,000 live births. In Kamwenge it is unknown, but expected to be much higher. Every year, 1.5 million African children are left  without a mother because she dies trying to give birth to a brother or sister. The risks in child birth are a struggle faced almost exclusively by poor women, with 99% of maternal mortality in developing countries. It is astounding in this era of medical advancement, that so many women continue losing their lives giving birth, and it is for this reason that Maranatha Health have chosen to focus on improving maternal mortality in Kamwenge.

Despite what I know, every now and then I wonder if what we are doing is worth it – maybe the situation in Uganda’s health care system isn’t ALL that bad.

Then, I read an opinion piece by Frederick Golooba-Mutebi in this weeks East African:

Maternal deaths: Why Ugandans are victims of their own civic incompetence

Recent media reports detailing the tragic deaths of expectant women and their unborn or newly-born babies in referral hospitals and health centres across the country have laid bare the crisis in Uganda’s healthcare system and made a laughing stock of the NRM government and its extravagant but empty claims about being focused on service delivery.

The anger, despair and disgust the many preventable deaths have caused are captured in the decision, reported in this column last week, by activists to take the matter into their hands and drag the Museveni government to court.

Reports from the “grassroots” indicate that in some cases relatives of the victims take matters into their own hands and threaten health personnel with violence. Others, however, behave as if their experience were the natural order of things and simply return home to bury their dead.

Before the decision of activists to enlist the law, only in a few isolated cases had victims of Uganda’s shambolic maternal health services sought to enlist the help of the police or courts of law. Two cases stand out.

One involved the death in early May of one Joyce Nabatanzi at Nakaseke Hospital, allegedly because nurses had been negligent. I have no idea how or where the story ended. However, a senior officer who claimed his staff were hardworking attributed the incident to the hospital having run out of essential drugs and supplies without which lifesaving surgery could not take place. Several phone calls to the National Medical Stores had not led to the desired response. To make matters worse, the hospital did not have an ambulance to transfer the patient.

The other was of a couple who lost a baby at Jinja hospital, also because of alleged negligence by nurses. The bereaved woman spoke for herself: “These people should improve. I heard countless insults from the nurses using obscene language. They handled me like I was a thief, pulling me from all sides.”

Unwilling to accept what had happened, her husband filed a case with the police. Here, as in Nakaseke, the hospital lacked drugs and supplies, as the father pointed out: “I bought everything since the hospital did not have the needed items to facilitate delivery.”

To add insult to injury, he could not get a post-mortem without coughing up more money: “Now someone tells me if I want a post-mortem, I have to give the pathologist transport.” According to a police officer on the scene, this was not the first time incidents of this kind were happening at the hospital.”

With all this in mind, it is difficult not to equate going to give birth at a public health facility in Uganda to going to war. As with combatants in war, here too, there is no way to tell whether one will come out alive.

There is, however, a sense in which combatants going off to war are better-off: They do not buy their own uniforms, guns, bullets, bombs, boots, or even food.

Meanwhile, expectant mothers going into government facilities must carry their own food, gloves, razor blades, sugar, tealeaves, bedding, basins and even saucepans. You have to see it to believe it. You would be forgiven for thinking they are moving house.

It is all too easy to buy into stories of the by now legendary negligence of health workers in Uganda. That is until you learn a thing or two about the conditions many face at work. Consider these statistics, which appeared in a recent newspaper report: Hoima hospital has 97 staff out of the 197 required. It requires 56 nurses but has only 34. It is run by eight doctors out of the required 35.

A brave nurse summed up how things work over there: “There is no other option than doing what we can and leaving what we can’t. What do we do when things are beyond our reach?”

Me?….Really?

Although I have enjoyed the ride immensely, it has been a tough few months, since we arrived in Uganda. Michael and I went away last week to south west Uganda for a much needed break. We went back to the lake where Michael proposed to me on a canoe at sunrise, almost exactly 3 years ago. This time away offered us a time to reflect on what’s been happening  over the past few months.  It also made me realise that I am exhausted. Since this blog is supposed to be an honest account of my life in Uganda, I thought I would share with you some of my reflections and struggles, just in case you were thinking life over here just sounded like one beautifully exotic national geographic article!

I won’t bore you with all the gritty, ridiculous details of the frustrations and struggles that are (mostly) behind us, but here’s a snapshot:

  • Obviously leaving Australia was tough – we miss our families and close friends in Australia an awful lot, and are still getting used to conducting a lot of our relationships over an incredible spanse of land and ocean!
  • The registrations processes for setting up an NGO/clinic/organisation have been incredibly frustrating. I have never spent so much of my time listening to ‘big men’ behind big desks in big offices telling me why they could not possibly sign this or that letter/form/recommendation right now because we obviously had not satisfied ‘abc’ requirements (that cannot be found written anywhere…)
  • Life in Uganda just isn’t life in Uganda without a good land dispute. One of the borders of our land was a point of contention and of course to clear up the ambiguity, we had to involve village leaders, what felt like half the Kamwenge community, and the family that had held the land for generations. It is now resolved.
  • A thousand visits to the work visa office
  • frustrations with electricity being off 50% of the time for a few months, and having to humbly (read: enviously) ask the staff at the World Vision compound next door if they would please let us charge our laptops with their new generator that runs constantly when the power is out
  • The difficulty of learning construction in another country and trying (seemingly much more than other foreign NGOs) to build cheaply, which basically means doing what every Ugandan does: bargaining for and being responsible for sourcing every last bit of construction material ourselves.
  • Experiencing the unavoidable reality of corruption in Uganda: being ripped off and having money stolen from us by lawyers and pubic servants. It sucks. I have decided my least favourite thing in the world is corruption.
  • Making decisions around planning and building our house; trying to maintain the delicate balance between trying to live as much like Ugandans as possible while also being aware of our limitations in this.
  • Problems with funding coming on time, and when we especially need it…

Don’t get me wrong – I love life in Uganda and I feel so privileged to be a part of Maranatha Health and I would never choose to live anywhere else right now. Life is exciting and fulfilling and shapes me more into who I want to be. But we are bracing ourselves as we realise that the challenges so far are a foretaste of the mountains ahead, as we move into the operational stage of MH – managing staff, launching governance structures, carrying out activities, ensuring good procedures, and coming across more ‘set up’ requirements. It can be overwhelming and the other day my husband in his incredible wisdom reminded me of a guy who knows exactly how I feel (this is VERY paraphrased for simplicities sake):

‘Suddenly, God appeared to Moses as a blazing fire in a bush. Moses was amazed because the bush was engulfed in flames but it didn’t burn up.

God called to him from the bush and Moses replied: ‘Here I am’

God then says: I am the God of your ancestors, and I’ve heard the suffering of my people in Egypt. I have heard their cries and I will deliver them from slavery. So, I’m sending YOU to Pharoah to ask for the freedom of my people. You will lead them.

To which Moses replies: But who am I to do this? Do you really expect me to lead the Isrealites?

God replies again and again: I will be with you. You can do it. I have called you to this. I will give you the words. This is important … etc…

The dialogue continues pretty much like this, with Moses continuing to protest and God continuing to say he will be with Moses and speak through him. Moses protests: They won’t believe me. They won’t listen. Who am I to do this? I’m just not a good speaker. I fumble my words. Basically – I’ll screw it up.

And in a final plea: ‘Lord, please send someone else.’

As most of you would know, Moses does end up being pretty suited for the role God asks him to play…

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God is clearly very interested in redeeming life and fighting poverty in Kamenge. Michael and I are constantly aware of His intention and vision and action in this little ‘idea’ he gave us.*

But over the course of the past week, I feel as if over and over  again, I have had this same conversation with God as Moses did. Why me? Why do you think I can actually do this? Am I even remotely capable of this?

Lord, please send someone else.

But alas, I am unable to shake the feeling that I was made for this. That every event in my life up until now has been about shaping and preparing me for living the life that I’m now in. So what’s left for me to do?  Chill out. Enjoy the ride. Keep my eyes on the horizon. And remember that God was the instigator of this vision. As clichéd as it all sounds, it works for me. Here’s something I wrote in my journal on the island:

“There is a big part of me that’s scared about this next part of the journey. I’m not sure quite what to tell her, the little girl in me that is wondering if she can really move to Kamwenge and Direct this project. I don’t have any proof to offer her- she hasn’t done this before. I don’t have any guarantee of her safety or success – it could all fail miserably. I don’t even have a road map for her to follow – just a set of principles that Michael and I have decided to live by and a God who feels strangely familiar and unfamiliar, both far away but somehow involved in allowing this girl inside of me to be courageous (or perhaps just remain silent) while I make the decision to live this life that He has called me to.”

*I am in no way comparing myself or the task set before us as ANYTHING like the biblical story of Moses leading the Israelites out of Egypt. I am just saying that I can relate to his reaction!!

The island where we stayed - a place of magnificent tranquillity...